Life's Getting Busy in Rio

[trilingual]

I may not be on every day for the next few weeks. Out-of-town (and out-of-country) friends have arrived in droves and will be here almost until my planned return to the U.S. in mid-June. Also, I think I've found a permanent apartment (won't know for sure until Monday) and dealing with the paperwork, plus starting to renovate and furnish it, will also take up lots of time. So I may be squeezing M4M in when I can! If anyone e-mails me for info, please understand any delays in responding. If you're in a rush, please try e-mailing Tomcal, Gulliver, Gringo or SF Traveler, all of whom are quite knowledeable about Brazil (or at least different aspects of it) and who should be able to answer questins that aren't covered here on Escorts South of the U.S.A.!

 

Will keep you all posted on the progress of the apartment project.

 

Jake: I was at Tele-Rio (a big appliance dealer) today and there IS a domestic brand side-by-side American-style fridge (Brastemp) but it's actually imported and costs about R$9000! That's about half what that imported one we saw at RioSul cost, but it's still very expensive. For about R$2500, you can get a good domestically-manufactured Brastemp unit that's all refrigerator plus a matching frost-free freezer! No ice-maker/water dispenser, but they're otherwise good items. (I think Brastemp is owned by Whirlpool, by the way.) Anyway, you can check it out at Tele-Rio at av. Copacabana, 807. There are branches of the other big appliance dealers (Casa Bahia and Ponto Frio) in the same block or so, so it's easy to shop and compare. We're gonna end up setting up the M4M Rio homemakers association before long!

[Guest Gringo]

Enjoy yourself and your company for a while. You've done alot of work to make this site the wealth of information it has become. Thank you very much and good luck with your apartment.

[Guest Jake]

Hey Tri - Thanks for the appliance update. Folks, you wouldn't even need an oven in the kitchen if you had the salesboy we had at the shop in Rio Sul - he was smokin'. The most sultry Carioca maybe I've ever met and coming on like a (steamy) locamotive. If he'd had just a LITTLE more starch in his hips it would've been a done deal. Only in Brazil guys, only in Brazil.

[+ Axiom2001]

Hi, Jake-- if the guy to whom you referred--..."he was smoking." is the same salesperson my friend and I saw in March of this year, both of us can attest to what you related. Ouch!

 

My friend was interested in the very beautiful Italian stoves; he and I viewed and discussed the features with the salesman, but in the final analysis-- my friend was granted permission to use his digital cam to take photos; my friend and I lamented afterwards that the guy should have been included in the photo.

Ouch! And as you said-- "Only in Brasil...!

 

P.S. This is the most interesting site on the web-- from men to appliances! lol Ax2---:-)

[trilingual]

I was with Jake, and they were Italian stoves, so it must be the same salesman (at "Spicy"). His thermostat was definitely set on "highest smolder!" But nice stoves and fridges are available domestically, at much more reasonable prices, and you can get a sauna guy to smolder for you for only R$50, so think twice before plunging into Italian stoves!

[+ Axiom2001]

<...so think twice about plunging into Italian stoves!>

:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) Tri, I shall! Obrigado, man!!

[trilingual]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Well, Tri has taken the plunge and signed a lease with an option to buy on a large 2-bedroom apartment in need of some renovation in a nice Art Deco building in Copacabana! It's the dream of many years, and has all gone relatively hassle-free, so here's hoping it continues this way! The next few weeks will be a bit of a blur trying to get renovations under way before I return to the U.S. in mid-June, so if I'm not around much I hope you'll understand. In the midst of all this my Berlin friends and another old friend from Porto Alegre are here, so life is very full!

 

Jake: Check out AmbientAir on the ground floor of RioSul (on the back side of the building). It has some of those Italian stoves for a lot less than Spicy! They also carry other top-of-the-line domestic Brazilian appliances, as well as air-conditioners.

 

Haven't been to the saunas much the past few weeks as I'm still having regular "drop ins" from two of the sauna guys and I'm quite satisfied, so far! However, I went to Point 202 last week with my two German visitors and it was quite full of both boys and clients. Quite a few gringos around, so business must be OK even if it's the absolute depths of the low season. Weather has been beautiful recently. Went with the visiting Berliners to Petropolis last Thursday on the Gray Line (arranged through Carlo at a price cheaper than quoted by the hotels) and enjoyed it immensely. I probably hadn't been there in 15 years and the town is considerably spiffed up. The Imperial Museum looks great, with lots more art work and original furnishings than when I last visited, and the crown jewels (basically one VERY big crown and a gold staff and scepter) are still impressive!

[CT Dick]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

> (basically one VERY big crown and a gold staff and

>scepter) are still impressive!

 

And his father's jewelless crown, which they raided for Pedro II's new one. :7

 

Dick

[Guest Jake]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Thanks for the tip, Tri. Congratulations on the apartment! (And I trust you have a really good agent and lawyer to work through the joys of doing biz in Brazil - it ain't easy.) I MAY get back down before you leave - I'll keep you posted. I'm working on an apartment by the month until the new pad is finished.

[trilingual]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Well, maybe you can take over MY temporary apartment. You've seen it; it's nice!

 

Signed the lease with relatively few hassles. Speaking Portuguese definitely helps! Carlo has been extremely kind and helpful in this process, including having an attorney look over the proposed lease and developing some changed language that protects my interests better. Just signed up a guy who's recommended by another old friend to do the painting and refinish the floors. The entire job will cost US$600, plus another US$250 for an awful lot of paint! The guy pays for the materials for actually doing the floors, including the Sinteko polyurethane finish! The supplies were delivered this afternoon and the work starts tomorrow morning! Just paid my first month's rent using the online banking feature of my Brazilian bank, so that seems to work OK! I'm deliriously happy! This all seems to be working out painlessly! Now it's time to start thinking about a kitchen and furniture! Or, in other words, Tri goes shopping! Which is almost as much fun as cruising!

[Guest Gringo]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Sometimes the fates are kind. You have earned your place in the magical city and I wish you every happiness.

[trilingual]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Thank you, thank you!

 

Carlos, the floor guy, ripped up the ugly and ancient espresso-colored wall-to-wall carpeting today to reveal beautiful honey-colored parquet in a tropical wood that he says is no longer available. Repaired, sanded and refinished it'll be beautiful. Hopefully the painting and refinishing will be done before I leave for the U.S. so I can store some things in the apartment until my return in November.

 

The apartment is on the same block as Odilo's, and has much the same view, for those who know Odilo's place. The windows look over the top of another building to the huge green hillside beyond. It's very quiet. The building is quite Art Deco, so I'm having great decorating fantasies!

 

Stay tuned. . .

[+ Axiom2001]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Congratulations, Tri Your speaking Portugese, as you stated, is truly advantageous; the new endeavors and adventures seem to be quite exciting and exhilarating! If only I were blessed in knowing another language (and especially Brasilian Portuguese) since I think I could live in that part of the word on an on and off basis! Hope to meet you finally in person when you return to the States in June, for I can personally attest that you've been an enhancer for me and my two trips to Brasil.

[Guest Jake]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Hey Tri - Remind me of what you were paying for the place on Avenida Copacabana. I'm negotiating for the apartment I've used several times a couple of blocks from my new place. I'd take it for at least a few months until the remodeling is finished. Thanks

[trilingual]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

It was R$2400 a month, or about US$23 a day. I got it through Copacabana Holliday. Use the search feature, I'm pretty sure I posted their contact info somewhere here.

[IamI2002]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

More like $28 per day. The real is under 3 per dollar.

[xchris]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

Hi, TRI !

 

Your experience in buying an apt. could become useful for my plans, too! I'm actually paying the 500R$ for month for the apt. in Catete where Carlos lives, because a friend of Carlos who shared the apt. died some day after my departure; he was a famous man of TV.

 

Now, I think that buying an apt. in the same area or in Sta Teresa, which I like a lot, could be more interesting than wasting money in renting, considering my desire to mantein a LTR with my friend.

 

There are also Financieras so to pay the apt. at the same price of a rent, what is your experience?

 

I'm really planning some effort in transferring half of my year down in Rio into a reasonable lenght of time. My health, emotions and joy of life improved a lot during my last stay in Brasil, all my friends here in Italy told me that they see it.

 

Ciao,

e auguri per il tuo nuovo appartamento.

 

CHRIS

[CarloRio]

RE: Tri Becomes a Part-Time Carioca

 

XChris,

 

You should be extra careful prior to buying an apartment in Santa Teresa, as time goes by the are is becoming more and more dangerous and prices of property are going down the hill... If you really like that area, you should be better off staying in Glória and Catete. Talk to your Brazilian friends and they will be able to help you find a nice place... some times it's wiser to do some cold calling ... that's how Tri and I found his wonderful apartment on Barata Ribeiro, for it wasn't even listed on the newspapers.

 

Um abraço;-)

[xchris]

Santa Teresa apts

 

Carlos,

Thanks for the advice.

I know the problems of Sta Teresa near the favelas, people told me that story. But I cannot live any charme into new apts in Barra beach. These are so anonymous and without a single bit of history!

I cannot imagine the process could be worst and worst as for danger is concerned.

And the Sta Teresa district is really nice, up the hill, near the Corcovado and Tijuca forest, far from pollution, with a beautiful landscape, with nice roads in blocks floor. Mmmmmm, we have some places in Italy we consider very exclusive. There is one ancient town near Venice in the mainland, called ASOLO, over a hill, where Eleonora Duse used to live, that is absolutely terrific, with breathtaking views over the lands and the green field, ancient villas around, shops with antiques facing the small roads, typical restaurants and wine houses, secluded landscapes far from the traffic you can usually suffer down in the valley. This is the atmosphere I imagine could be resumed in Sta Teresa as well, when or IF the problems of favela riots and attaks could be solved.

 

Do you think the problems of danger will be eased even if not ceased at all? Or the prospect is even more scary year after year? If I plan something in a long period, may I hope that in some years tyhe place could be safer?

 

How it is possible for someone from Europe to access to a financin form of buying a property?

 

I'll be back in Rio in October-November, and I want to organize some plans in the meanwhile, not to waste to much time in deciding apts to see and where to get them.

So, if you have some ideas on where and how have some contacts, be free to contact me.

 

Hope your business in Salvador and San PAulo could improve.

 

CIAO

 

CHRIS

[trilingual]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

Supposedly, you can't get a mortgage in Brazil if you're not a resident, but you also aren't supposed to be able to get a bank account here if you're not a resident, yet people do! My guess is that a Brazilian bank would consider a mortgage if you also are a customer. At least I hope so!

 

Other alternatives would be to buy in a newly constructed building where the developer offers its own financing, or try to find a seller who is willing to finance the deal him/herself. Or, just save and pay cash. In many areas, like Sta. Teresa, prices are quite low (especially in euros) so you may be able to afford something outright.

 

Inner city neighborhoods, like Sta. Teresa and downtown, aren't highly prized right now because of the crime problems, but they ARE slowly coming back, and people are beginning to move back to those areas. If you do it now, you'll be a pioneer, but in ten years I think those areas will be considered desirable again. Traffic to Barra is terrible, and it will be at least ten years (I think) before the metro reaches Barra. In the meantime, many people will have second thoughts about the very long commutes between Barra and the city. Unless someone also works in Barra, the commutes can be grim, and not everyone is willing to put up with them.

 

Whatever you do, DON'T buy property in Brazil with an eye to making money. Buy with the intention of living in the property over the long term. In that case, it's still a worthwhile investment, regardless of property values, because you'll be locking in a price and it'll be cheaper than rent in the long run.

[CarloRio]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

Hi Chris,

 

Unlike Tri, I really don't think that things will improve within the next 10 years over Santa Teresa region. For that region is surrounded by favelas and things there will only get worse.

 

But like Tri said prices there are extremely competitive but it would be very tough if not impossible to get any financing here to buy anything unless you buy a brand new home and you finance it with the builder...

 

But if you really like that region you should try to look for something in Glória (which has one of the nicest views of the bay) or even Catete (far from the slums of course). These neighbourhoods are next to Santa Teresa and much safer...

 

I would definetely stay away from Santa Teresa, but you can always find a nice and quaint place over there as well, and if you are willing to undergo the risk it might be worth.

 

Barra wouldn't be very practical for you, because as Tri said, it's another city, it's nice but it's far, it's not quaint, you'd need a car... I would only go there if I were looking for a quieter place and a nicer beach, for city life as saunas, bars, newstands, bakeries as you have in the city... you won't find there... but more of an American suburbia lifestyle with malls etc... in a lovely setting that only Rio has...

 

Um abraço,

 

 

Carlo Romano:D

[Guest Deweywop]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

I'm really with xchris on Santa Teresa. There aren't many other urban neighborhoods in the world where you ride up on an antique tram over a viaduct to reach an old-world village of faded villas and one-horse town squares with picturesque views (riding the tram to Noe Valley in San Francisco is an approximation). I'm sad to hear the crime situation there is so bad.

 

Of course, I would heed the opinions of locals like Carlo and transplanted locals like Trilingual. We outsiders might be imposing our familiarity of Northern urban evolution to a different setting. In America, when a down-and-out neighborhood is pretty and full of character, inevitably the young, hardy, and artistic start moving in (already signs of that in Sta Teresa); then come the gay men (xchris?); and before you know it, it's all chi-chi restaurants, cunning boutiques, and million-dollar condos.

 

I agree that Gloria and Catete, with those stately old buildings and towering trees, seem like the closest thing to Sta Teresa. I also thought Botafogo looked interesting.

 

Thanks for allowing me to indulge vicariously in distant real estate dreams ...

[Mavica]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

I don't get it. Why would the area be so desirable, if you risked being mugged on a daily basis when you attempted to "ride the tram" home? Straight message boards focusing on travel in Rio are full of stories of people being attacked, injured, robbed . . . etc., because they wanted to take the tram there. Unless you had a private car, or traveled in a secure taxi, why would anyone want to risk it? Then again . . . to each his own!

[Guest Deweywop]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

For all those other reasons.

 

I'm not one to trivialize crime, especially to those who feel a special sense of vulnerability or think they have so much to lose, but personal experience tells me there's more interpretation than objectivity when people talk about crime or security. Or, people have objective information but interpret it their subjective way based on their values and preferences. For example, you say why risk getting mugged "on a daily basis" -- your experience is different from mine, since I spent two days in Santa Teresa and didn't get mugged either day! And the "risk" I bore those two days were clearly worth the enjoyment and education I got.

 

I don't know which straight bulleting boards you're referring to, and they may well be full of fairminded people who refuse to settle for second-best, but I wouldn't put much stock in it if they're just the spring break, Club Med, or tour group types of tourists. Some people probably think being forced to pronounce "cai-pi-ri-nha" is a crime.

 

Anyway, as I've said before, my take is that if you let fear overcome all other reasons to go to or be somewhere, you'll miss out on a lot of fun. Of course, it's a judgment call each of us must individually make.

 

Ultimately, the best way to avoid crime is not to have anything anyone wants to take. I concede that's easier to do as a tourist than as someone setting up house in Rio. I'd want to accumulate creature comforts, electronics, maybe a car. I'd be staying in one place and getting known in the neighborhood, which can be good because neighbors could look out for me, or bad because I could become a studied target. All of these would be very important factors to consider. After all, I was not dismissing crime as a factor, I was just mentioning all the other gracious elements of life in Santa Teresa as I saw it -- which crime in itself does not render pointless.

[trilingual]

RE: Santa Teresa apts

 

Carlo is probably right about Sta. Teresa as a real estate investment (or as a possible home). Even though it's extremely picturesque, the crime problem is real and not likely to improve anytime in the immediate future. Sta. Teresa also has the disadvantage of being relatively isolated and hard to get to and from, especially at night when there's not much in the way of public transportation. Life there would be very difficult without a car, and cars in real are major hassles! That cute tram is charming as hell, but isn't the most efficient form of transportation. Gloria and Catete, as Carlo points out, are also charming older neighborhoods, with fewer crime problems and much better accessibility, including metro service. I think Sta. Teresa will eventually come back, but we're talking in the fairly long term. For someone who is looking to live in Rio in the near future, other neighborhoods are probably better choices.