Some Things to Do in São Paulo

[trilingual]

One of the problems people seem to have going to SP is that thee's no beach. So what's there to do during the day while you're waiting for the baths to get rolling? Here are a few ideas:

 

If you'll be here before the end of March, make a beeline to the state art gallery ("Pinacoteca do Estado") for the stunning exhibit of the Brazilian paintings by Albert Eckhout. Eckhout was a Dutch artist brought over in the early 1600's by Prince Maurits of Nassau to record the wonders of Dutch Brazil. The paintings consist of three portraits of a Congolese emissary and his manservants, a series of superb still lifes of Brazilian fruits and vegetables, eight portraits of two couples representing each of the four principal racial/ethnic groups in Dutch colonial Brazil (except for European whites) and a fascinating depiction of an Indian dance ceremony. The complete set of paintings ended up being donated by Maurits to the Kind of Denmark, and the paintings are now found in the national gallery in Copenhagen. This is the first time the set has ever been lent in its entirety, and is a must see. The paintings were among the earliest images of the New World to reach Europe, and deeply influenced the European vision of the Americas.

 

The Pinacoteca is in a recently restored building that is fascinating in its own right (near the Luz railroad station) and features an extremely interesting permanent collection of 19th and 20th century Brazilin art. Although much of it derivative of European academic art, many of the artists were highly skilled, and the Brazilian subject matter of the paintings makes them unusual in and of themselves. The museum has a nice shop and an attractive cafe in the basement. Adjoining the museum is the Parque da Luz, the first public park in SP, founded in 1789 or thereabouts. It's been recently restored (in 19th century style) and it's a charming retreat in the midst of all the concrete, with flower beds, ancient tropical trees, little lakes, band stands, etc., all enhanced by having been turned into a sculpture garden for the museum. This is all well worth the visit, as the Pinacoteca tends to get overshadowed by the MASP, the main art museum on Av. Paulista, with it's fine collection of European masters.

 

Across from the Pinacoteca, check out the Luz railway station, a superb 19th century structure being restored as part of a project to link all the downtown stations of the suburban railway system. A couple of blocks away is the Julio Prestes station, much of which has been recycled into a superb concert hall, the Sala São Paulo, but which remains a working station with a classic train shed (visible from the concert hall lobby during intermission!).

 

Last Saturday was a civic holiday (SP's 449th birthday) so many things were closed, except for shopping malls. I headed for a neighborhood I didn't know, Higienopolis, which turns out to be a very upscale area of tree lined streets and handsome parks with many luxury high rise apartment buildings and a sprinkling of remaining grand mansions. The Patio Higienopolis shopping center is in the middle of it all, with a nice food court on the top floor, and a branch of the Museum of Modern Art (MAM) in a refurbished old mansion next door. A visit here, and a walk around the neighborhood, will give you a good sense of how the well-to-do live in SP.

 

Another glimpse of upscale SP can be had by strolling around r. Oscar Freire (near Av. Rebouças), which is the Rodeo Drive of Brazil. The merchandise won't be new to visitors from the northern hemisphere, but it's an educational experience to wander around the collection of big name designer shops to see how the Brazilian "other 10%" lives. At night, there are a lot of upper class gay night spots around the area.

 

If you're in the Av. Paulista area, check out the Livraria Cultura bookstore in the Conjunto Nacional center, near the Av. Rebouças end of the street. This is one of the largest bookstores in Brazil (scattered across several shop fronts in the mall) and a great source of gorgeous art and photography books if you want a souvenir of your stay to take home. There's also a branch of FNAC in the Pinheiros neighborhood, for another huge selection of books and music (both FNAC and Cultura also have books in English) and a glimpse of another upscale area.

 

BTW, on Saturday night I went with friends to HS (Homo Sapiens) a disco downtown that is populated by men well over thirty and their younger admirers. The music is a mix of periods and nationalities, and is blessedly NOT deafening. For once, a dance place where you don't have to feel out-of-place if you're over thirty! HS is on r. Marques de Itu, just a few blocks from Av. Vieira de Carvalho, which also is packed with gay clubs with a more eclectic crowd than what you'll find in the Jardins.

 

In a city of 20 million, there's much, much more, of course, but this should keep someone who's only in the city for a few days something to do!

[+ Axiom2001]

Tri, although you leave for the States tomorrow or today-- I just want to thank you tremendously for this most recent and pertinent information; I plan to use and engage when I ventured to SP in April. Obrigado! AX

[trilingual]

I seem to have become confused in my old age. HS (the boate/disco for mixed ages) is actually the old name of the place. Somehow I didn't notice the change the night I was there. It now seems to be called ABC, and it's located at r. Marquês do Itu, 182 - downtown. Good Fridays and Saturdays after 11:00 p.m. On Sundays it starts earlier, around 8:00 or 9:00 p.m. As a city, SP is very much about business and work, so I assume that's to allow some last-minute playing before having to show up at the office/factory bright and chipper on Monday morning. . .

[IamI2002]

Off Topic

[IamI2002]

Deleted message

 

No message

[IamI2002]

Attack the isssue, not the people, PLEASE

[gulliver]

In regards to all of the negative, bitter, and obviously unrelated to the subject of the thread postings I have to wade through by IamI2002

to read the info I find useful - can not IamI2002 find something to do with his free time that would of some value.

 

I leave next week for my third trip to Brazil since Nov 2002 and the primary cause of these vacations were the wonderful, informative, postings by tri and others - some of whom I have met, such as TomCal.

Thank you gentleman for helping me discover the wonders of Rio and Brazil. I am on Pimsleurs Brazilian II and have found a spot I love staying in - the Atlantico Copacabana. I have met some wonderful American and Canadian men with whom I stay in contact and will be seeing over the next few months.

 

I know it must be hard to be patient when someone like IamI2002 clutters the site with his garbage and vitriol. Please dont stop your informative writings due to the actions of some little pissant that most of us consider irrelevant.

[Guest Deweywop]

Would that his postings are negative, bitter, and surreal enough to be entertaining. I have found his snipes to be, up to this short posting, utterly uninspiring of comment.

[Guest Arthur Brazil]

Congratulations, Trilingual!!! You've got to know the nicest and "in"places of São Paulo.

Good to know you are an art lover, by going to the Pinacoteca, one of the most beautiful museums and buildings I've ever been in the world.

And Luz Station, that, believe it or not, only very few of us (paulistas) know, and in wich the architecture gave us a wonderful present.

Also Livraria Cultura, my favourite, wich is, besides a very important book store, a very nice "spot" in town.

Now you can be a guide over here, very good!!!

 

Arthur

[trilingual]

Obrigado, Arthur! But you live in São Paulo, so you must know LOTS of other interesting things a visitor can do during the daytime. (Besides shopping, of course!)

 

At least a few that come to mind are: MASP (the major art museum with an international collection on Av. Paulista) and Parque Trianon right across the street. The park is a rather fascinating spot of very tame and landscaped jungle. The back part of the park (going downhill away from Av. Paulista) is cruisy. The park is small, only about two square blocks. Livraria Cultura and the Conjunto Nacional are just a few blocks up the street on Av. Paulista going in the direction of r. da Consolação.

 

There's also the Museu da Repúblic (aka Museu da Ipiranga) in a palatial building built on the spot where Brazil's independence was declared in 1822. Lots of interesting historical displays. The grounds and gardens are handsome, and Dom Pedro I (the first emperor of Brazil) and family are buried under the big monument in front. (Dom Pedro II and the rest of the royal family are buried in the Cathedral in Petrópolis, near Rio.)

 

SP is a major restaurant town, so you can also while away an afternoon having lunch at a good place. After all, you need to build up your energy for your activities later in the day!

 

Anyway, these are just some obvious ideas. Arthur, what other interesting things can you think of for a visitor to do during the day in Sampa?

[HooBoy]

If it is still playing, go see "E Bella ea Ferra" -- it's "Beauty & The Beast", the Disney production, in Portugese....in a beautifully renovated Sao Paulo theater.

 

I have seen it in London, New York and Los Angeles and this production was a big and fun as all those others....and only about 38 bucks USA for prime Orchestra seats.

 

Not exactly Brazillian culture (or sex), but it is a fun show and these folks do a fabulous job.

[trilingual]

We're gonna have to work on your Portuguese spelling, Hoo! ;-) In Portuguese, the show is called "A Bela e a Fera." I think it's still onstage; it was when I was there a couple of weeks ago. Productions of Broadway musicals have done well in SP. I recall seeing a terrific version of "Chorus Line" there years ago.

 

Visitors to SP can find out what's going on by buying a copy of "Veja" at any newstand in SP and looking over the accompanying local entertainment supplement. On Fridays, the leading newspaper, "Folha de São Paulo," includes a magazine supplement listing all of the upcoming week's cultural events. You don't need to be a Portuguese scholar to figure out the listings in these entertainment guides. If words like "Teatro," "Cinema," "Filmes," and "Restaurantes" don't mean anything to you, there's probably not much hope for your linguistic abilities!

 

Movies in Brazil are usually shown in the original language with Portuguese subtitles. The listings usually show the original name of the film in parentheses after the title in Portuguese, which is helpful because the Portuguese titles sometimes have nothing to do with the original one.