off the beaten path

[vers7]

I recently visited 6 cities for the first time. I posted sauna information in Trilingual's Brazilian Sauna thread in the review section, so I won't repeat that information. I hope some of my observations might be helpful.

I guess I'm stating the obvious when I say that Manaus and the northeast are hot and humid. Being poorer areas, air conditioning was also more scarce than in the south. Although I'm in fairly good shape, after a week and a 1/2, I was a little tired and happy to move on to the cooler and wealthier south.

Recife -- I spent a really lovely afternoon and evening in Olinda. (The Recife orchestra just happened to be giving a free concert next to the convent school below the praca da se.) Olinda is definitely worth an afternnon. However, Recife was probably my least favorite city. Boa Viagem is the best area to stay in, but it doesn't really hold a candle to Ipanema. Some suggest staying at a beach resort outside of the city.

Fortaleza -- I thought that this was a more attractive city than Recife. I stayed in the Holiday Inn in Iracema. It was clean; however, I would probably suggest a nicer hotel in the nearby Meirelles area; although again, don't expect Ipanema. It's very slow and without much social activity during the weekdays.

Manaus -- Manaus is not a particularly pretty city and is worth at most a day. The fish/food market and the Amazon Theater are fascinating. If I return, I suspect that I will take a ferry from Belem, up the Amazon and will stay in an Amazon resort as opposed to staying in Manaus.

Brasilia -- I'm really glad I visited Brasilia. It's a very interesting city. The Niemeyer buildings do not disappoint. I took free tours of several of the buildings. Although there didn't seem to be a lot of tourists, they made sure to provide guides fluent in English. Being small, there doesn't appear to be much gay scene during the week -- other than in the saunas.

Curitiba -- This was the biggest surprise. A really beautiful, clean city with well maintained streets and sidewalks and a surprisingly sane bus system. (Too bad it's not on the ocean or it would be perfect.) The centro is very nice and safe. There appears to be a very active sauna scene (regular and with miches) and an active gay social life on the weekends. I stayed at the Bourbon Hotel which was great and well located. The Oscar Niemeyer museum is also a must see.

Sao Paulo -- What can you say about this city -- a huge, wonderful mess. I stayed at the Hotel Bourbon in the center. Although this area turns gay at night and is fun, it's a little scary after dark. I think the next time I'll try to stay in the one of the Jardim areas. The pinacoteca museum at the Praca da Luz is one of the best. I will be back many times.

[buckguy]

"Manaus -- Manaus is not a particularly pretty city and is worth at most a day. The fish/food market and the Amazon Theater are fascinating. If I return, I suspect that I will take a ferry from Belem, up the Amazon and will stay in an Amazon resort as opposed to staying in Manaus."

 

I was in Manaus twice when I was in Brazil last August, at ecah end of a trip down the Amazon. I didn't like it on visit #1 (an overnight), but was much happier on the second trip (two days). The Opera House and surroundings are interesting, so is the port area. A botanist with whom I'd traveled for part of my Amazon trek spoke highly of the scientific center on the outskirts of Manaus. There is free entertainment in the evening by the Opera House. There's alos an interesting mix of archtetucre from Manaus' glory days, though much is in disrepair. A trip to Amazona really needs more than a day or two in Manuas. I stayed in an interesting ecotourism resort near Tefe after spendiung time in a Colombian national park and staying in Peruvian village in the area near Tabatinga. I also went hammock class on one of the boats down the river. Some scheduled boats have semi-luxury accomodations ($100/night). Manaus is fine as a gateway and you can probably find enough to do there to bookend a float down the Amazon or a stay at some resort.

[Guest dreynsol]

http://www.brazzil.com/images/stories/2005/apr05/olinda_recife_brazil.jpg

 

Read an article about Olinda recently and here's an excerpt:

 

A U.S. Foundation to Save Olinda, a Brazilian Treasure

 

Written by Ernest Barteldes

Wednesday, 20 April 2005

 

The city of Olinda, a small historical town in Brazil, which is practically integrated to the metropolitan area of Recife, the capital of the state of Pernambuco, was founded by the Portuguese during the 16th Century.

 

Anyone who has been to Olinda will tell you about the breath-taking beauty of the four hundred-year-old churches and houses that stand on a hill, giving visitors a great view of the Atlantic Ocean and the Recife harbor.

 

Olinda is a well-known tourist spot both for year-round visitors and for revelers who flock its streets during the four days of unstoppable partying that happens during Carnaval.

 

During Carnaval the city attracts lovers of "frevo," the local beat created decades ago that has people frenetically jumping as they attempt to follow the manic 4-4 beat that dominates its sound.

 

The city was included in UNESCO's registry of landmark towns in 1986, and was recently declared a national monument by the Brazilian government.

 

A few years ago, a piece of Olinda came to us - an altar taken from the São Bento Monastery was included in the "Brazil Body and Soul" exhibit at New York City's Guggenheim Museum in December of 2001 - a piece of the touring show that both stunned visitors as it drew criticism from the press here and in Brazil.

 

Despite Olinda's undeniable allure, many of the historical structures there are in dire need of repair, and other buildings need to be returned to their original concepts.

 

And its refurbishment is the goal of the recently created Maria Nóbrega Foundation, which hosted "Art in The Park", a fund-raising event at Central Park's Boathouse last February 26th in celebration of The Gates with that specific aim in mind.

 

 

Here's the link to the article: http://www.brazzil.com/content/view/9001/76/

 

Going to São Paulo in a few weeks staying at the Bourbon Hotel, and I thank you for your comments. :-)

 

- Drey

[trilingual]

The newspapers here reported on the inaugural trip of a new luxury boat service on the Amazon between Belem and Manaus. The boat is specifically built for river travel, but is multi-deck and offers amenities of a cruise ship, including modern air-conditioned cabins. Fares for a five-day trip seemed very reasonable. I don't remember the name of the ship, but I'm sure Carlo can find out and make reservations if anyone's interested. It's been quite a while since there was a real first-class boat making the Amazon run and I have a feeling it'll be mobbed if it's as nice as the news reports make it sound!

[buckguy]

There's been luxury boat service on the Peruvian Amazon for quite some time and I think there are luxury boats that ply the Brazilian Amazon a few times a year.

[escorpion]

Maybe I'm dumber than normal, but I'm having a problem locating your posting on the various saunas. Maybe you could post it in this thread as well, for ease of access. Obrigado

[vers7]

I just sent it (the sauna information) in a couple of days ago. I received notification that it will be posted, but it might take a while. I'm sorry, but I didn't keep a copy of it.

[trilingual]

>There's been luxury boat service on the Peruvian Amazon for

>quite some time and I think there are luxury boats that ply

>the Brazilian Amazon a few times a year.

 

Some years ago there was a government-owned shipping line that had a regular "first-class" service on the Amazon between Belem and Manaus, but that ceased after privatization. I never took that boat, but from guide-books it didn't sound very deluxe, just a few cuts above hammock-class on the little riverboats that ply the rivers of Brazil. There are some small traditional-style riverboats that have been exclusively fitted for touring on the Amazon, with supposedly "first-class" accommodations and services. These operate trips of three to five days on an all-inclusive basis.

 

Major cruise lines have been including Amazon segments as part of their overall cruises for a few years now, but these aren't regular river services. Also, I don't think it's possible to just buy passage on such boats between Belem and Manaus. Passage is likely to be expensive.

 

The new ship, apparently inspired by those that cruise the Nile, is specifically designed as a river boat and will have regular service on the Amazon between Belem and Manaus. I found the name of the ship: it's called the Grand Amazon and is owned and operated by a huge Spanish tourism company called Iberostar. Information and pictures at http://www.iberostar.com (On their home page is an interactive map. Click on the star located in Brazil, which will take you to a page showing the ship.) From the pictures and description, the accommodations and services on the Grand Amazon will be similar to those in a good modern hotel, including large comfortable staterooms, 2 pools and one jacuzzi located at the roof top, 2 Restaurants, conference room for 148 passengers (seated), drugstore, fitness center, elevator, laundry, valet, paramedic, ballroom, internet access, etc.

 

http://www.iberostar.com/imatges/imatgesHotel/GrandAmazon/principal.jpg

 

http://www.iberostar.com/imatges/imatgesHotel/GrandAmazon/vistasGenerales/galery/308x206/final.jpg

 

http://www.iberostar.com/imatges/imatgesHotel/GrandAmazon/habitaciones/galery/308x206/ACOMO11.jpg

 

Any travel agent, including Carlo, should be able to make reservations for you, and also arrange your transportation to and from the departure and arrival ports, accommodations in the port cities, etc. There will be 3, 4 and 5-day cruises at varying reasonable prices during this inaugural season. It looks like the ship will begin service in May 2005.