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Where's Lapa


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Guest Ernani

If you know where Sauna 117 is located, you can go to Lapa easily, since it´s located in a walking distance from 117. Lapa is the most busy district in Rio at Friday nights. Most of the action is around the 300 y.o. aqueduct ( now a rail road to the charming trolley car wich passes by over the aqueduct ). It´s an old and traditional district and very democratic, where you find from punk´s, hippies, barbies, models, junkies... and all kind of people. 35 % of people who attends Lapa is gay and there is a lot to see and to do there. I highly recomend you to pay a visit when in Rio. Boa Sorte !

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To add a bit to Ernani's response, Lapa is adjacent to downtown (essentially between downtown and the Glória neighborhood, where Club 117 is located). For more than a century it has been considered to be the home of Rio's "bohemian" nightlife, and it has a colorful and celebrated past. In recent decades it's been considered very "downscale," but in the past few years Lapa and downtown in general have been enjoying a revival and as Ernani says, on Friday nights especially it's thronged. There are open air bars near the aqueduct, some of which attract a gay crowd (just turn on your gaydar and look at the crowds carefully to figure out which spot is catering to a gay clientele). There is also a well-known gay venue called Casanova.

 

Lapa attracts primarily local fun-seekers from all parts of Rio, so it's an eclectic mix of partyers. There won't be many tourists there, and few of the snobby Ipanema barbie crowd (who wouldn't be caught DEAD mixing with such supposed low-lifes) but it's really quite a varied bunch of people who go there. Since it's not a tourist area, for the most part, first-timers might be more comfortable going with a Brazilian friend or guide. Ernani is an excellent one, BTW. But you can also check with Carlo Romanus, or ask one of your new acquaintances from the saunas to go with you.

 

Also, not far from Lapa (but a cab is recommended) is a thumping techno music dance venue in the old Cine Ideal, near the Praça Tiradentes. Very much a local night spot, but worthwhile if you like that kind of music. Ran into a few of my sauna acquaintances the night I was there, so it's obviously a place at least some of the guys frequent!

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I'll add my vote that Lapa is not to be missed (at least if you're in Rio for more that one Friday night - and Friday is THE night) Throngs of partying people without the drunken egos usually associated with such mobs. Dozens of small bars and restaurants with doors and windows open and salsa, samba, cubano, african and multitudes of other beats pouring out. People dancing and cruising everywhere. And don't miss the famous tile steps that go up the hill between the colonial casas in the middle of it (but hold your breath if you don't smoke weed because these steps are seriously smokin'). My first trip there was on the back of Ernani's motorcycle - now THAT was a trip. But on another night I've also been trapped in a great little restaurant in a torrential downpour with flooded streets and a mob of people trying to get in out of it. What a blast by candlelight (no power) and a dash to a bus that got stuck in traffic. The driver was an aspiring grand prix driver and his was one of the few vehicles moving in the flooded streets - and was it moving! Some trip back to Copacabana with fun people and a crazy driver in an oversized waverunner to be dropped steps from my hotel. Ahh, Rio. And I'll be back THIS Friday night.

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When I first saw this thread-- I was about to skip it, but I'm glad I chose to read what's here. Yes, men, do include this as part of your itinerary while you're visiting Rio. Ernani made it a point to take me there on a Friday eve. last October. I was reluctant to venture into those crowded, crowded streets, but Ernani (with his omnipresent smile) guided me through the throngs of merry-makers; we wandered in the middle of all who gathered-- bumping shoulders, etc... I truly enjoyed my Carioca friend for his having made a point to have me partake in this experience.

 

And yes, those gorgeous titled steps which Jake alluded to must be seen. They were featured in Snoop Doggy Dog's Rio video. In this video which is shown on MTV and BET is a gorgeous young Cariocan who adds to Snoop's vid; some attractive women are here, too. When I first saw the vid, I thought-- that's in Rio. Then when I saw those steps-- I just screamed rather "manly"-- smiles-- that's Rio! I will go to Lapa again! It awaits me to re-experience!!:-)

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I thought I would add my testimonial about Lapa. I was taken there one friday night last year by Gringo and met up with some of his Brasilian friends there. I have to agree with everyones impressions - it was pretty magical and remains one of my favorite memories of my trip and a definite place to revisit in October. The thing that impressed was the extreme congestion of all the bodies in the heat with everyone staying extremely civil and laid-back. No jostling, fights, ego trips. If it were in an American or other Latin American city I think there would be many more problems. Another great thing is there seems to be relatively few women. I think it would be difficult for them with all the drinking and lack of toilet facilities. So, I would estimate the ratio of men to women to be at least 25 to 1 - shoulder to shoulder, many with no shirts on - can you imagine!

 

Another memory comes up with the mention of Praça Tiradentes. In 1976 when I made my first trip at Carnaval my favorite gay ball was at Teatro São Jose on the Praça - boy what memories! Orgies up in the balcony....I hear it was torn down years ago, I was hoping to go looking for it my last visit. My other favorite ball was Elite, which I hear still exists - I think Tri has mentioned it in previous posts. I can't believe it since back in '76 the floor of the balcony seriously sagged up and down with the dancing. I was very afraid it was going to cave in then and there.

 

Great memories, can't wait to get back and experience some more.

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Mike, I thank you for your astute observations. "...no jostling, fights, ego trips..." You're "spot on"! What you cited was definitely observed by me in Lapa as well as at Carnaval '03 and on the streets and crowded buses, and at the packed--packed Gayla Ball in Leblon.

I've concluded that Brasilians know how to conduct themselves when the crowds become thick and heavy which is quite the contrary at so many of our venues and activities.

 

I'm glad you decided to give your take! Axiom

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Guest Gringo

It was fun sharing that night in Lapa with you Mike. I enjoy the feel of Lapa. I stay with friends near Lapa. I am close to the Friday night party, cinelandia, meo mundo, via appia, central do brasil and my very favorite campo santana. It is not for everyone, but that's what makes life interesting.:+ ;)

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