Italy: Rome, Portofino, Florence, Pisa, Venice

[foxy]

I'd highly recommend Siena, one of my favorite Italian cities. It's worth a couple of days if possible. Make sure you see the Piccolomini frescoes in the library of the cathedral. They are gorgeous. Also, climb the tower over looking the shell shaped square where the palio di Siena is held.

[justaguy]

AS--Thanks for confirming my impression of Milan.

Whipped guy--I'll be sure to put the Basilica on my list. And the Palazzo's already there because of the history.

Karl-G--I didn't know about the Haring, so thanks.

foxy--I'm trying to time the trip to be there for the palio! It sounds like a blast.

[Guest DuchessIvanaKizznhugg]

Just sayin'....

 

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Especially Duchess for keeping on me to finally post the pics.

 

Methinks you like the whip

 

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae139/DuchessIvanaKizznhugg/Humour/CHI0000912_P.jpg

[Guest LeoWalker]

Pisa was one of the greatest cities in Italy for many centuries. It was one of the three greatest seaports, along with Genoa and Venice, and competed with them for domination of the Mediterranean. Its navy was large and feared; its archbishop was extremely important and wealthy. It was never a small village. It is situated on the Arno River, which also flows through Florence. But Pisa controls the mouth and harbor. Pisa was wealthy, powerful, and famous long before Florence. Florentine trade would have died if it could not have passed through Pisa. So there was bitter rivalry between the cities. For a variety of reasons, Florence won ultimately and took over control of Pisa and its crucial harbor. And it quickly made sure Pisa would never be a threat to its trade again, and Pisa went into decline. But in its heyday of centuries, Pisa was an exceptionally rich and powerful state, and the cathedral complex attests to this.

 

I appreciate you taking the time to correct my misconception of the city...now, I wish I had realized these things before going. In my travels...I many attempts to connect with the culture and history of the places I visit...but it's so hard at times to coordinate everything and often times things are simply not noticed. Again, thank you.

 

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Duchess...ha, I've done a little kink, but still ultimately very vanilla.

[Karl-G]

Milan. Or Not ?

 

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It is true, whenever you go to Europe or Italy, you have to make choices about what to see and do. There is so much available. But Milan is not an inconspicuous dot on the map.

 

Milan is one of Italy's greatest cities, both in the past and today. Because Milan controlled the passes through the Alps, she was incredibly rich and powerful. Milan was far richer than Florence for most of the Renaissance, and the Duke of Milan (a Visconti or a Sforza) was one of the most powerful men in Italy. Milanese craftsmen made the best armor in all of Europe. The great fields of Milan produced the rice and wheat to feed most of Italy.

 

As befitting such a splendid and wealthy city, the city fathers erected the largest Christian Church in the world in the center of town. It remained the largest for 200 years, until St. Peter's was built. It has five aisles rather than the usual three; if Chartres had 200 statues, Milan has 2300. The roof is so large and strong that trucks drive around up there to do repairs. You can walk around. Just one block away is the huge 19th century glass covered Gallery Victor Emmanuel, lined with restaurants, coffee shops, ice cream parlors, and trendy fashion stores. (Smaller versions are in Paris and London.) At the other end of the gallery is La Scala, the most famous opera house in the world. The dukes lived in the splendid Castello Sforzesco, which is still there and partially furnished. The Brera Museum is one of the best museums of Renaissance art in Italy.

 

Leonardo da Vinci left Florence to come and spend 17 years in Milan working for the duke. Leonardo designed buildings, submarines, helicopters, giant statues, the duchess' dresses and jewelry, the floats for the many parades, etc. etc. Leonardo painted all the walls and ceilings, including the ceilings in the stables for the duke's prized horses. (You can still see some of them.) And Leonardo created one of the most sublime paintings ever made, for the wall of the duke's favorite monastery in town = the Last Supper. The monks at Santa Maria della Grazie looked at the painting in their dining room as they ate in silence.

 

The University of Milan is one of the greatest in the world; Piero Casiraghi (Princess Caroline's son) is there working on a degree in economics. Milan is the fashion capital of Italy these days, and all the great Italian designers have their workshops and main stores in Milan. So if you want to see the latest and best fashions for men or women, head to the very chic shops of Milan.

 

There is a great deal to see and do in Milan, if you have the time.

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[whipped guy]

Karl-G... Again thanks for the fascinating history lesson! It is much appreciated! I'm quite sure you have more knowledge to share!

 

Now regarding the Galleria (there is a similar one in Naples), that was the forerunner of our modern day mall... As for Milan's Cathedral, it has been taught in art history classes for years that it was overtly over-done and too ornate... an architectural birthday cake with too many candles is how it has been described! I think it fits in perfectly given its location and the history of Milan considering itself to be the center of all things important... and that includes their opinion of La Scala in the world of opera!

[happyguy2]

Thank you Karl and also Leo for posting. For ten years, my work brought me to all Italy, often. This brought back so many wonderful memories. I plan to return after ten years, in the spring. Now, I want to go even more .. happy holidays to you all

[Guest LeoWalker]

.

It is true, whenever you go to Europe or Italy, you have to make choices about what to see and do. There is so much available. But Milan is not an inconspicuous dot on the map.

 

Milan is one of Italy's greatest cities, both in the past and today. Because Milan controlled the passes through the Alps, she was incredibly rich and powerful. Milan was far richer than Florence for most of the Renaissance, and the Duke of Milan (a Visconti or a Sforza) was one of the most powerful men in Italy. Milanese craftsmen made the best armor in all of Europe. The great fields of Milan produced the rice and wheat to feed most of Italy.

 

As befitting such a splendid and wealthy city, the city fathers erected the largest Christian Church in the world in the center of town. It remained the largest for 200 years, until St. Peter's was built. It has five aisles rather than the usual three; if Chartres had 200 statues, Milan has 2300. The roof is so large and strong that trucks drive around up there to do repairs. You can walk around. Just one block away is the huge 19th century glass covered Gallery Victor Emmanuel, lined with restaurants, coffee shops, ice cream parlors, and trendy fashion stores. (Smaller versions are in Paris and London.) At the other end of the gallery is La Scala, the most famous opera house in the world. The dukes lived in the splendid Castello Sforzesco, which is still there and partially furnished. The Brera Museum is one of the best museums of Renaissance art in Italy.

 

Leonardo da Vinci left Florence to come and spend 17 years in Milan working for the duke. Leonardo designed buildings, submarines, helicopters, giant statues, the duchess' dresses and jewelry, the floats for the many parades, etc. etc. Leonardo painted all the walls and ceilings, including the ceilings in the stables for the duke's prized horses. (You can still see some of them.) And Leonardo created one of the most sublime paintings ever made, for the wall of the duke's favorite monastery in town = the Last Supper. The monks at Santa Maria della Grazie looked at the painting in their dining room as they ate in silence.

 

The University of Milan is one of the greatest in the world; Piero Casiraghi (Princess Caroline's son) is there working on a degree in economics. Milan is the fashion capital of Italy these days, and all the great Italian designers have their workshops and main stores in Milan. So if you want to see the latest and best fashions for men or women, head to the very chic shops of Milan.

 

There is a great deal to see and do in Milan, if you have the time.

.

 

Again, I really appreciate your elaborations. I'm considering an extended stay (a month) in Europe where I keep a home base and travel from that location to various other cities. Milan was first on my list because of it's size and proximity to everything in Europe. Second choice was Barcelona. I've not been to either cities. For a while I was considering Barcelona primarily because so many people say good things about it. But, I've been back to Milan for a while after researching such things as La Scala. Also...Italian food is one of my favorites (that and American Japanese). The one night I spent in Madrid...I nearly starved. Sausage and seafood seem to be major elements of the cuisine...neither of which I care much for as prepared. I had a steak which was so salted I nearly couldn't eat it.

 

Is there anything else in Milan you'd really recommend paying attention to? I'll check into the books this trip for pointers.

 

One last thing about Spanish cuisine...there's a restaurant in WeHo...The Spanish Kitchen...which serves...authentic Mexican cuisine.

[+ Italiano]

 

Is there anything else in Milan you'd really recommend paying attention to?

 

I grew up in Milan, and even if not living in Italy anymore for 20 years, I go back there 2-3 times a year. I still have there la mamma.

 

Definitely Milan is not Rome, Venice, Siena or Florence! But I would definitey say that it's more than worthy visiting.

I disagree with the fact that the Duomo (Cahthedral) is a big wedding cake, I think it's a grand example of gothic splendour.

 

Downtown is definitely the place to see the most.

There apart from the obvious Piazza Duomo/Scala/Galleria trio and all the area around, I would definitely recommend the Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco), the old Brera area with all its narrow alleys and slightly outside downtown the Navigli (channels) area, all part of the Vecchia (old) Milano.

It's part of the "fashionable" Milano to stroll once through the shopping area of Via Montenapoleone and admire the elegance!

 

Of course don't miss the Santa Maria delle Grazie church with the Last Supper (even if it's a pain in the ass organizing the visit by appointment only...), and from Milano it's A MUST to take a 30 minutes train ride to see the Certosa di Pavia (Chartreuse)

 

 

 

One of the things I always find fascinating it's watching during the day ordinary people walking downtown Milano. It is amazing the fantastic way they dress, they look all like they are Armani models! The sense of style it's part of their genes, even if they don't necessarily dress labeled clothing.

 

Many handsome men, I have to say...

 

If you need to know more, just email me!

[Guest greatness]

Your pics

 

You remind me of the movie "Roman Holiday"

 

[whipped guy]

I grew up in Milan...

 

X… Thanks for the further Milano update. Also, just for the record, even though in a previous post I cited a bit of criticism regarding Milan’s Duomo, I in no way adhere to the theory that it is an “over-sized birthday cake with too many candles”. I was simply quoting what is often taught in art history classes and what students need to regurgitate to get a passing grade. Personally I think it is an impressive and unique example of the Italian Gothic style of architecture. I actually prefer it to many of the unbalanced so-called “superior” French examples. Italian art, like their music, is always so equalized and symmetrical and even when the style is ornate.

 

As for La Scala, when I visited (pre-renovation) there were unfortunately no performances scheduled. However, there was a museum that offered a view of the theatre from one of its boxes. It was indeed chilling (in a positive sense) to feel the presence of all the greats who graced that historic theatre throughout the many years of its existence from my favorite Rossini to my much-loved Callas.

 

I might also mention that Lake Como and the Alps are a hop, skip, and a jump away as well.

 

Also, X hit the nail on the head on the subject of how the Milanese outfit themselves compared to many other areas of Italy. In addition, the men really do dress in a very stylish Armani-like manner. Plus, as I recall they seemed to dress at least as fashionably, if not more so, compared to the women. I remember going to the Galleria to price some trendy-looking high-end items. Of course X has let that cat out of the bag revealing that most of the individuals who caught my eye were probably wearing knock-offs!

[Karl-G]

Milan

 

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Serendipitously, Rick Steves' video on "Milan and Lake Como" was just on tv here. It is an excellent introduction to the city. You should be able to get it at most libraries. And now that I think of it, Rick's programs on the other cities would also be excellent introductions to all of them. You learn a lot of history, culture, and cuisine in a short time with excellent visuals. And of course you could buy them and have an excellent photographic record of your trip - without the hassle of trying to take the video yourself.

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[Guest alanm]

One of the things I always find fascinating it's watching during the day ordinary people walking downtown Milano. It is amazing the fantastic way they dress, they look all like they are Armani models!

 

Many handsome men, I have to say...

 

 

Milano is a city that takes a while to love. It does not immediately charm in the ways that Rome, Florence and Venice do. But, it would make a wonderful European base, Leo.

 

As to La Scala, my experience is that tickets to the operas sell out very quickly, usually with in a day. I did see Rossini's Cinderella at La Scala, but only by paying close attention to the day tickets went on sale.

[Guest LeoWalker]

xafnndapp, thanks for the suggestions.

 

Karl-G, thanks again for the recommendation. As far as purchasing the video for memories...I love doing my own video...and in the course of the last ~10 months I have amassed over 100 GB of video data documenting my tour (travels). That doesn't count the photography data. I learned on the Italy trip that I need to stay on top of my camera's memory card...otherwise I would have photographed many more things.

 

alanm, thanks for the heads up...I have the date marked on my calendar for the show I want to see...tickets don't go on sale for about 4 months from now. Whatever the reason, it seems lately that tickets are increasing in their demand. Even with AmEx concierge waiting for the exact minute tickets went on sale, I've lost the opportunity to get tickets. I've been working with ticketing brokers quite a bit lately.